With Dutch apple pie in our bags we leave Phuskar to go to Jaipur. We start with a nice climb and see a lot of monkeys and nice small houses. The small road changes into a real highway.
We can pass the tollgate without paying. The wind is in our back an we cycle until we see a place to sleep besides the highway. We reach Jaipur early and we find a place where we can put up our tent. Jaipur is a big city but not as cozy as we expected. We stay here for a couple of days and enjoy the Mac Donalds and the Pizza Hut……
We cycle through the old town and find our way in the direction of Delhi. A road is going up to a fort and we decide to take it. We cycle the way up and we reach the fort. The views are amazing and we visit the fort. The guard tells us to make sure that our bags are closed because of the monkeys. We see a small path going down to the next village. While we are walking down with the bikes we see a group of elephant taking a swim in the lake. These elephants normally bring the tourist on their backs up to the fort.
We cycle criss cross through the fields before we arrive in Sariska. Here you find the Sariska Tiger Reserve. Tigers can’t be found anymore, but there are a lot of other animals. We go by jeep trough the park and see jackals, sambers, blue bulls, jungle cats, owls, monkeys and more. It’s a real nice tour.
In a few days we cycle through the fields to Delhi. Every morning we cycle through clouds of flies. We keep our lips stiff together and we are hoping for some wind which will take away the little animals who are teasing us. This part of India is flat and it reminds us of cycling through Pakistan. 60 kilometers before Delhi we spend a night in our tent. The only hotel in the village is a resort and we think it’s too expensive. The man of the hotel looks at us and probably he sees two tired faces, because he allows us to sleep in the tent for free. The people walking around in the gardens of the resort found themselves a new attraction to watch. The next day it’s easy to arrive in Delhi and soon we found ourselves a nice hotel in a touristy street.
Our days in Delhi are most of the time relaxing ones. We walk around, do some shopping and in the evening we try to find a nice place to have dinner. It’s delicious to eat a steak from a water buffalo. The cows can be holy in India because the taste of the buffalos are lovely. Delhi is a nice city. The space is enormous, the distances are wide and th buildings are quiet low. Mister Bush is in town at the moment and Delhi and not everyone is happy with that. There’s a lot of talking about him on the streets, but for the rest it’s ok.
On the day we want to leave the big city I don’t feel well. After breakfast we decide not go and I go to bed again. A day of rest is what I need and the next day we are on the road again in the direction of Palwal. In the evening Marlous has a fever and we stay for another day. Because we want to cycle to Agra we have to follow the only road that leads to this place and we cycle on the highway. This is not our favorite option but it’s ok after all. There are a lot of pilgrims walking on their way to a Hindu festival. They are heading for Mathura, a holy city for Hindus. We stay here as well at the side of a river. In the early morning we go for a ride in a boat to see the ‘ghats’. Here there are a lot of people washing themselves in the river and doing their rituals. Marlous is rowing the boat for a while and she enjoys it.
Agra the town of the world famous Taj Mahal is a chaotic town. The part around the Taj Mahal is much more relaxed and here we find a nice place with a garden to stay. We stay here for a few days and every day we see busses loaded with tourists come and go. The day we want to leave we wake up early to go to the Taj. Before sunset we are waiting in the line with a lot of other people. Unfortunately the sky is not clear. The Taj Mahal is beautiful, but in Iran…….In our eyes is all the talking about the Taj Mahal a bit overdone.
In the beginning of April there will be strikes and demonstrations in Nepal. We decide to skip Varanassi and we want cycle straight to the border so we can reach the Noble House before April 1st. Traveling during the strikes doesn’t seem as a good idea to us. We cycle through the abandoned fields of India. The people are friendly and very curious. We both have to conquer a ‘Delhi Belly’ and stay for a few days in Kanpur. When we are healthy again we cycle further to reach the border with Nepal at the 21st of March.
This last part we enjoy the Indian traffic one more time. The busses and cars with their horns blowing non-stop. Trucks that do not wait and pass by whenever they want to. Men who are spitting and want to go faster than us. Boys shouting ‘Hi’, the cows on the streets, shops at the site of the road, people working hard in the fields, monkeys and pigs. Children who are running to us: “Hello, dada, bye bye and school pen?” This is India!
* Phuskar – Bagru: 126km
* Bagru – Jaipur: 33km
* Jaipur – Shahpura: 73km
* Shahpura – Sariska: 52km
* Sariska – Alwar: 40km
* Alwar – Sohna: 121km
* Sohna – Delhi: 64km
* Delhi – Palwal: 67km
* Palwal – Mathura: 96km
* Mathura – Agra: 72km
* Agra – Sikohabad: 72km
* Sikohabad – Chibramau: 107km
* Chibramau – Kanpur: 138km
* Kanpur – Rae Bareli: 124km
* Rae Bareli – Faizabad: 123km
* Faizabad – Basti: 78km
* Basti – Gorakhpur: 76km
* Gorakhpur – Sunauli: 99km
Total in India: 2555km